Food & Drinks

Michael Gray of Plat 99 shares a simple idea for a frozen grown-up treat—made with Indiana bourbon.

Prior to ordering, guests are served an amuse bouche of warm, salty sancocho—a slow-cooked beef-and-chicken broth that servers describe as a welcoming stew. The soup is surprisingly addictive, with an intense flavor like that of the stock cooked off of ham-and-bean soup.

He has free reign over the menu at Napolese, a pizza empire that grows by one more when Martha Hoover opens the restaurant’s third incarnation this month at Keystone at the Crossing. But success has not diminished chef Tyler Herald‘s sense of adventure. Here, the Portland-trained chef with the locavorian spirit reflects on his growing season.

The glazed tofu and jicama slaw sandwich on crusty baguette—a fine vegetarian approximation of the banh mi—from Duos Kitchen (2960 N. Meridian St., 317-508-8614). Recommended side: the spicy collared greens.

With the race in the rearview, our thoughts turn to our next culinary adventure: Zoobilation on June 14. The Zoo’s annual fundraiser/restaurant competition/extravaganza shows off the city’s best restaurants and caterers in a super-fun atmosphere amid some serious people-watching. We wondered if there would be anything new to make this year’s edition, “Safari in the City,” worth the schmoozing required to score a ticket to the perennially sold-out show. As it turns out, there are.

From The Libertine to Recess and Oakleys to Bluebeard, Korean to Latin and sushi to steak, our critics chose the cream of Indy’s dining crop,. Who’s at the head of the table? Read on to find out.

F is for Foraging: Top chefs are joining the search—often in secret locations—for wild edible plants plucked straight from nature (as opposed to cultivated). Tyler Herald of Napolese and Craig Baker of The Local Eatery & Pub are known to incorporate foraged goodies—like wild ramps and dandelion greens—into their seasonal dishes.

1. The embarrassingly large pulled pork sandwiches served picnic style at Locally Grown Gardens (1050 E. 54th St., 317-255-8555).
2. Peppery fried chicken with greens and candied sweet potatoes at Southern Kitchen (7854 E. 96th St., Fishers, 317-288-0202).

Fire ‘n’ Ice: The rim of this jalapeño-infused reposado tequila cocktail sparkles with chili powder and salt, and there’s a habanero reduction in the mix.

Given how much science goes into a single serving of yogurt or frozen custard at Sub Zero (427 Massachusetts Ave., 317-446-9247), you could expect employees to face a bit of a learning curve as they perfected the process. Clerks at the new Mass. Ave. shop, the latest location of the national chain, furrowed their brows as they kneaded the flavor bases (frozen almost instantly by a quick blast of liquid nitrogen) into something they could scoop into a paper cup.

1. The super-light fish tacos—just sauteed hunks of fish with a little pickled slaw and chipotle cream—at 10-01 Food & Drink (1001 Broad Ripple Ave., 317-253-1001).
2. The refreshing Gin Rickey with lime and basil at The Capital Grille (40 W. Washington St., 317-423-8790).
3. Drake’s (3740 E. 82nd St., 317-436-7531) defiantly nontraditional Surf ’n’ Turf roll, encased in a thin strip of beef.
4. Roasted sugar snap peas at the downtown Napolese (30 S. Meridian St., 317-635-0765), sizzling in a hot ramekin with a sprinkling of Parmesan. The pods come with cracker-crisp flatbread and a scoop of herbed Trader’s Point Greek yogurt for dipping.
5. The addictive bite-size pao de queijo, freebie cheese popovers that arrive at your table amid the all-you-can-eat meat rotation at Fogo de Chao (117 E. Washington St., 317-638-4000). They taste like hot cheese puffs and are almost worth the appetite wrecking.

Located inside the Legacy Hills Golf Course’s clubhouse, Spire Farm-to-Fork (299 W. Johnson Rd., LaPorte, 219-575-7272) proves that small-town Hoosier dining can aspire to something more than gut-busting tenderloins and grandma-style pies. In the restaurant that opened in September of 2012, chef-owner Brad Hindsley prepares meals completely from scratch, using only fresh ingredients—never processed, packaged, or frozen—from farms within a 150-mile radius. On a recent visit, the menu touted 16 local produce vendors; nine meat, egg, and dairy farmers; and even five specialty vendors supplying such basics as sugar, flour, and honey.

Though it’s been open for “21 months and counting,” or so our waiter (also one-half of the husband-wife duo that owns the place) informed us, it wasn’t until several well-informed foodie friends told us it was definitely worth the drive that we dared the endless traffic snarl on U.S. 36 to have lunch at this Hendricks County international gem. Pho 36 (9655 E. U.S. Hwy 36, 317-273-1830) may seem unassuming from the outside, tucked into its strip-mall home next to a foot massage spa. But it packs plenty of fresh flavors into its Vietnamese staples: soups, sandwiches, noodle dishes, and bubble teas. The savory aroma of a bunch of spring rolls frying up hit us as soon as we opened the door.

The crunchy, salty truffle fries, served with a scoop of aioli as thick as gelato at Taste Cafe and Marketplace. These classic gems are well worth the breath mint you will need to pop before going back to the office. …

As to designs on an Indy move, Davidson says that a humble start will breed expansion: “We’re gonna work our way out. We want to self-distribute as long as we can.”