Auberge★

FRENCH Brick Street Inn’s classic French bistro installed talented chef Toby Moreno (The Loft at Traders Point Creamery, Plow & Anchor) in early 2022 and immediately sent him to Paris, where he trained in the kitchens of famed chef Alain Ducasse. Moreno has added that continental know-how to the vintage dishes he makes fresh with as much local produce, meats, and cheeses he can. That translates to an impressive plate of buttery escargot topped with croutons, seasonal salads, and a deeply flavorful French onion soup with a rich broth. Seafood stars among entrees, especially crispy-skinned roasted cod with browned-butter sauce, though diver scallops with asparagus puree, showered with herbs and toasted almonds, also impress. Quiche of the day is a solid choice, as is the house burger, made with Angus steak and slathered with a tarragon aioli that’s especially good on a side of pommes frites. Old-school cocktails are even better when enjoyed on the streetside patio. 175 S. Main St., Zionsville, 317-733-8755, aubergerestaurant.com    $$$