Geraldine’s Supper Club & Lounge★ ½

Already famous for the slow-smoked brisket, Chicago dogs, and loaded burgers at his two Fat Dan’s Deli locations, restaurateur Dan Jarman goes upscale at this retro homage to his mother and the swank dinner draws of his youth. Exposed brick from the former Ironworkers Corner Bar and a lacquered wood bar set the scene for a lounge-like atmosphere worthy of Dean Martin. Fun takes on classic cocktails include a color-changing gin and tonic and a dirty martini with a rosemary sprig and blue cheese–stuffed olives. Jumbo prawns with cocktail sauce, crab cakes, and oysters Rockefeller are familiar steakhouse starters, but broiled tomatoes are a recipe straight from Jarman’s mother. Homey split pea soup is a surprise among more traditional French onion and wedge salads, and steaks include throwback cuts such as tender Chateaubriand and a buttery, juicy boneless Delmonico ribeye aged for 60 days. Dinner Tues.-Sun.