Plat 99★ ½

In a tiny prep area that backs up to the bar, nimble gray-smocked chefs assemble distinguished small plates like pinwheels of rare beef and arugula sprinkled with black Turkish salt, braised pork-belly sliders sticky with cherry chutney, and a flight of oysters. The food competes with a flamboyant drink menu and the lush lounge decor of The Alexander hotel’s bar-centric showpiece, a corner space with sweeping skyline views through floor-to-ceiling windows. Dinner daily.