Siam Square★ ½

Soothing red and green curries—redolent of coconut milk, Thai chili paste, and fresh veggies—play strictly by the book. The same goes for the fresh shrimp-and-chicken spring rolls packed inside a filament of rice paper, and the crab Rangoon, fried crisp around the fluffiest sweet cream-cheese filling. Some of the more specialized dishes, like a tender, chunky eggplant stir-fry and a mellow catfish curry, play second fiddle to the more-familiar noodles.