The Inferno Room★ ½

A hit both at the beginning of the night and the end of it, this tiki-centric showstopper in Fountain Square pairs its gilded cocktails with a fun menu of smallish plates with an island influence. Delicate yuca nachos are finished with pickled red onions and chimichurri. Kebabs impale pork, jerk chicken, and yams. Pork lau lau bathes the shoulder in coconut cream and lemongrass, and salty Spam sliders are the perfect foil to a sweet and fruity drink served over crunchy ice. But the real star is the Hawaiian-plate lunch favorite, loco moco, layering Spam, fried egg, and meatloaf over sticky rice with brown gravy.