The Oceanaire★ ★

Luxury dining takes the delicious form of stuffed trout in tomato-chive butter, Panamanian cobia served Oscar-style, and whole fried fish rising off of the plate at this high-end chain inside a section of the former L.S. Ayres department store, an Art Deco gem. Even if you just stop in for fresh oysters and martinis at the swanky bar, the Baked Alaska makes for a spectacular finish. Lunch Tues.–Fri., dinner daily.