Tony’s Steaks & Seafood★ ★

Standards abound at downtown’s latest chophouse franchise with roots in Cincinnati and Lexington. Elegantly presented oysters, mussels, and calamari tossed with pepperoncini and cherry tomatoes top a list of mostly seafood appetizers, but don’t miss what has to be one of the city’s biggest crab cakes, mounded on a swath of tangy mustard aioli. A special seasoning blend of paprika, sea salt, and pepper means New York strips and bone-in prime ribeyes have an especially flavorful char while being perfectly lush and tender inside. Yet seafood offerings are just as respectable, especially Chilean sea bass sauced with a maple-sage emulsion and served with al dente barley, caramelized onions, and shaved Brussels sprouts. The brick-lined, above-street bar in the former home of Colts Grille now serves up fish tacos, stuffed burgers, and truffle potato wedges in urban-chic environs. But no matter where you sit, the doting staff will do its best to make you feel a part of the family. Dinner daily.