Handels Homemade Ice Cream

Describing Vardagen as a T-shirt shop is like calling St. Elmo a steak joint: You won’t find a superior one in town.

Who better to help us review 30-plus ice creams from parlors across the city than a distinguished panel of experts: the Hancock County dairy club, whose members range from ages 5 to 14.

The prime rib sandwich at Harry & Izzy’s (153 S. Illinois St., 317-635-9594). Thinly sliced meat, white cheddar, and horseradish sauce with au jus for dunking. The sweet/tart red sangria at Canal Bistro (6349 Guilford Ave., 317-254-