Layton Roberts

Provision opens in the new Ironworks Hotel, the latest from Layton Roberts and Cunningham Restaurant Group.

When the food is this attractive, every bite is preceded by a moment of hesitation, if only to admire all those intentional squiggles of sauce and microgreen halos before the plate turns into chaos.

If you want to know where the real action is at Union 50, Cunningham Restaurant Group’s natty new spot for broad-shouldered American fare, look no further than the bustling pick-up window into the kitchen.

While no one would ever confuse chef Layton Roberts’ menu of dolled-up poutine, charcuterie boards, and fusion comfort creations with the fish fries and chili pots of yore, the Cunningham Restaurant Group has retained the essential charm of those Rust Belt social clubs at Union 50.

The glorious excess of dishes served amid the log walls and votive candelabra of Meridian-Kessler’s showpiece restaurant have a flair for the dramatic. But the flavors steal every scene.