soul food

During Sunday brunch, gospel music hums in the background as dolled-up church ladies flock to the buffet for cream cheese–stuffed French toast and another piece of fried chicken.

Under sandwiches, fried bologna and a BLT made with fried green tomatoes have enough Southern flair to give a person the vapors.

The eatery, named after Brackett’s youngest daughter, joins the ranks of Kountry Kitchen and Maxine’s Chicken & Waffles, but Brackett says it’s not a competition.

The servers at Kountry Kitchen are strikingly sweet, delivering canned Cokes alongside jelly-jar glasses and hauling out trays loaded with two-meat, two-sides combo meals.