Food & Drinks

When J. Razzo’s (12501 N. Meridian St., Carmel, 317-844-9333), a new far-north restaurant with a local pedigree, opened a few weeks ago, there was a built-in buzz factor. Of course, Indy’s enduring obsession with good Italian food has been well publicized (as is only fitting for a cuisine imported from a country shaped like a boot to a state shaped like a sock). But this Carmel ristorante also boasted the golden touch of John Perazzo, the former chef at Indy institution Salvatore’s and, later, co-owner of downtown’s recently deceased Zing—an ancestry worthy of kissed fingertips in and of itself.

The embarrassingly large portion of smoked rib tips—probably a dozen of them—and scoop of macaroni and cheese that goes back to basics with just a bit of crunch on the edges, at GeoSoul Soul Food (3705 N. Illinois St., 317-920-8090), which opened in May. The Cuban sandwich at Twenty Tap (5406 N. College Ave., 317-602-8840), a reference to the storefront’s former tenant, Northside News

The Boogie Monster, a massive cheeseburger fortified with grilled pastrami, onion rings, and a fried egg, at Boogie Burger (1904 E. Broad Ripple Ave., 317-255-2450). The grilled fruit dessert at Canal Bistro (6349 Guilfo

Get your Chicago Dog and tots while you can. This Friday is King David Dogs’ last day before moving exactly one block north, where the hot dog eatery will triple its seating. The hiatus will last a week or so. Owner Brent Joseph hopes to be back open at 135 N. Pennsylvania Street by the first of October. And then, the world is his hot dog bun. Regarding King David’s future plans, Joseph says, “A northside location is definit

How long does a box of warm, fresh Virginia Kay’s Doughnuts last in an office full of editors with the mid-afternoon munchies? Just barely long enough to snap these photos.

Po’ boy lovers, rejoice. Another Cajun restaurant is making its way to Indy. N’awlins Creole Cafe is opening a second location at Indiana Avenue and West Street., in the former Zing location. Co-owner and New Orleans native Brian Marcelin, who also runs a N’awlins Creole Cafe in Avon, says the move-in date will probably come sometime in October. “We liked the location, and the building looked like it belongs

“I don’t like the word mixology, really,” said Neal Brown, glancing down the long bar toward his busy staff at The Libertine Liquor Bar (38 E. Washington St., 317-631-3333), which opened last week. “These guys are barkeeps. But if the word means making drinks like a chef makes food, then it does apply.” Call them what you like: they’re mixing the most innovative and delicious cocktails—not to mention serving up some of the tastiest grub (“bar food,” in the menu’s designation)—in the city.

The prime rib sandwich at Harry & Izzy’s (153 S. Illinois St., 317-635-9594). Thinly sliced meat, white cheddar, and horseradish sauce with au jus for dunking. The sweet/tart red sangria at Canal Bistro (6349 Guilford Ave., 317-254-

It’s looking like a busy week for local diners who have $30 to spend, with dueling restaurant weeks showcasing the two compass ends of Indianapolis. Savor the Southside and Northside Nights both run through September 18. Each promotional event features either $30 three-course, multiple-choice menus, or a two-for-$30 couple’s meal.

The Sartorialist loves him some Bazbeaux!

Admittedly, the Indianapolis Colts Grille (110 W. Washington St., 317-631-2007)—a new NFL-themed restaurant in the shell of the former Claypool Courts off-track betting location—seemed like the kind of eatery that would have a “kick me” sign on its back. How could any foodie take this place seriously—with its out-of-state ownership, cookie-cutter sports-bar menu, and more flat-screen TVs than a Best Buy?

Last Friday, Indy’s food truck caravan circled up in the parking lot of the Murat Theatre for some Labor Day weekend curbside service. The sweltering blacktop and excruciating lines significantly raised the stock for Pop Cycle’s organic frozen treats and (guess the joke’s on us!) practically everything on the picture menu of a Summer Song ice cream truck. A portabella sandwich from the Fat Sammies window tempered the mushroom’s smoky flavors with a sweet marinara sauce. The queue stretched to infinity for the baby burgers at Keys Gourmet Catering’s Slider Station, and the employees of Byrne’s Grilled Pizza were perpetual-motion machines churning out thin-crust margarita pies. Diners sipped adorably packaged (though shamefully overpriced at $12 a bottle) Beanblossom Hard Ciders from Oliver Winery  while demonstrating their corn-holing prowess. But precious Mabel on the Move, the only food truck to take on the tin-can aesthetics of an Airstream trailer, won all of the style points.

Crisp, deep-fried Moroccan Eggs, like Scotch eggs but with an added layer of falafel, at Black Market (922 Massachusetts Ave., 317-822-6757).  Good Morning Mama’s (1001 E. 54th St., 317-255-3800) corned beef hash—hash browns and shredded corned beef under eggs. The mixed-be

Rare is the restaurant under 500 square feet that garners much media buzz. An eatery that petite featuring burgers and tacos would strain to hit the gourmet radar. But when you are a chef who has racked up enough four-star reviews that you already have your own cutting-edge, postmodern “playground” where your culinary vision answers to no one, then just about any food you offer up, in any space, would draw a crowd.

A chilling review by GQ’s Alan Richman proves it isn’t easy being a food critic.