Pizzology

Nestled in a nondescript Carmel strip mall, Neal Brown’s eatery is decorated with nothing but a little chalkboard paint, some black-and-white photography, and butcher paper on the tabletops. The Neapolitan-style pizzas are just as straightforward, with only five red-sauce varieties, each one garnished with Smoking Goose proteins and hand-pulled mozzarella. House favorites include the Homemade Sausage (topped with fennel-laced meat against the subtle sweetness of peppadew peppers) and the Carni, a meat locker of sorts featuring porchetta, pepperoni, and mortadella, crowned with fresh arugula. Brown’s long-expected second location just opened on Mass Ave this month.
INSIDER TIP: The pasta doesn’t play second fiddle here. Order the Pappardelle Bolognese—wide egg noodles twisted around tomato-braised pork shoulder.
SAVE ROOM: In case you haven’t done enough carb-loading by dessert, try the zeppoles—glorified Italian doughnut holes.
PREVIOUS MENTIONS: Best Restaurants 2010–2011, 2013
13190 Hazel Dell Pkwy., Carmel, 317-844-2550, pizzologyindy.com
 

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This article appeared in the May 2014 issue.