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Revisit: Peppy Grill

Back in spring, when many restaurants were bracing for COVID closures, one Fountain Square institution was putting the final touches on an expansion. No surprise that restaurant was Peppy Grill. For more than half a century, the diner has fed wee-hour revelers the kind of short-order fare the city has had less of as time goes by. Having survived economic ups and downs and even two Health Department closures in 2018, the spiffed-up original reopened last summer, while a second location debuted near IUPUI. A charming interior (curved booths, black-and-white tile, cartoon murals) gives the new spot an airy feel that regulars from the lovably shabby flagship might not recognize. Yet favorites such as griddled patty melts, platter-sized breaded tenderloins, and legendary all-day breakfasts will be familiar. As for that twinge of guilt you get for trashing your diet at 2 a.m. or dragging in the next morning with a hangover? That will follow the Peppy Grill brand wherever it lands. 910 W. 10th St., 317-653-1932

Terry Kirts joined Indianapolis Monthly as a contributing editor in 2007. A senior lecturer in creative writing at IUPUI, Terry has published his poetry and creative nonfiction in journals and anthologies including Gastronomica, Alimentum, and Home Again: Essays and Memoirs from Indiana, and he’s the author of the 2011 collection To the Refrigerator Gods.
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