Beholder★ ★ ½

A former car-repair shop just outside Woodruff Place sets the stage for a daring piece of performance art featuring pig-skin noodles, granita-topped uni designed to melt on the tongue, grilled cucumbers, and other transfigured meats and veggies. Labor-intensive cocktails are so smart and spot-on that it’s hard to choose just one. Or three. Dinner Mon.–Sat.