Bluebeard★ ★ ★

Crowds still roll in for chef Abbi Merriss’s take on seasonal comfort food, a category she dominates in town as evidenced by her vast collection of national media mentions and James Beard Award nominations. Start with the bread baked next door at sister-business Amelia’s—delicious slathered with anchovy butter—and build your meal from the ever-changing menu of small and large dishes. Crispy fried morel mushrooms may show up on a spring picnic plate, while winter nights call for a butcher shop Bolognese that rivals any version of the Italian favorite. Bluebeard is a rare local neighborhood restaurant open for Sunday dinner, and Team Merriss makes it worth the while with its popular $1 oyster night. Lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner daily.