Meridian Restaurant & Bar★ ½

This luxe lodge is known for dishes both hearty and elaborate—duck-leg confit, vegetable roulade, fried oysters, boar Bolognese, smoked corn purée—delivered with flourish by a crisp staff in white shirts and black ties, all in a stunning timber-walled dining room lit by wagon-wheel candelabra. Lunch Mon.–Sat., dinner daily.