Tinker Street★ ★ ½

Chef Braedon Kellner gets risky with his daily changing lineup of painstakingly constructed dishes and gilded Midwestern standards that have ranged from squash noodle pad thai to a lamb loin with white-bean ragout and rosemary jus. The tiny dining room that helped spur the 16th Street renaissance can barely contain the crush of diners and the bustle of the staff. Tables on the enclosed porch offer a little more elbow room and a fine place to linger year-round over a glass of wine until that elaborate pouf of berry-stuffed Pavlova arrives for dessert. Dinner Tues.–Sat.