Tlaolli★ ½

This innovative Latin cantina was a cheery, lighter alternative to the more-typical taquerias of East Washington Street when it opened as a 400-square-foot storefront with al fresco seating in 2013. It recently underwent an extensive renovation that added a vibrant and welcome dining room for customers wanting to eat on site. And while brunch has been eliminated, the kitchen at this hard-to-pronounce but easy-to-love spot still cooks up vegetarian molletes, tortas, and tacos that even a devoted carnivore could love. Soy chorizo, jackfruit, and surprisingly delicious hibiscus flowers top meatless items, while pork carnitas, red mole chicken, and a chicken-and-zucchini stew head up the more traditionally protein-rich offerings. Combos of tacos and tamales, made with olive oil instead of lard, are good for sampling, but hearty soups and entrées showcase the bright, complex flavors of Tlaolli’s menu. Be sure to add a side of salsa or guacamole for an extra punch. Lunch and early dinner Tues.–Sat.