The Dish

When the history of cuisine in the United States in the 20th century gets written (it’ll take some time to get some real perspective), there can be no question that chef Charlie Trotter will have a place in the pantheon. His eponymous Chicago restaurant ranked with French Laundry, El Bulli, and other temple destination as one of the places anyone serious about dining needed to visit—not to mention served as a training ground for an emboldened generation of chefs, including the likes of Grant Atchatz and others. On New Year’s Eve, he announced that his cozy place would close in August, after its 25th anniversary. Get your reservations … now.

There is a good summary in the Chicago Tribune, as well as a Sun-Times piece from New Year’s Day. (Props to that scrappy newspaper, which broke the story.)

The Traitor, a deliciously updated Eggs Benedict at Ruth’s Keystone Cafe (3443 E. 86th St., 317-757-8006). It features two eggs poached (to such creamy-dense perfection that we wish this kitchen would run a workshop on the lost art), placed atop seasoned mashed-potato pancakes (instead of the traditional English muffin) and drizzled with a luscious Hollandaise that rides the rich lemony-buttery-creamy flavor wave. A

The belovedly funky but now slightly dated Shelbi Street Cafe has changed its name to the verbose End of the Line Public House (1105 Shelby St., 317-687-4857), promising a slice of Indianapolis history and the best selection of local craft beers. We popped in to see the changes over the weekend. But not all that much has changed here, save for a row of historical photos of such classic Indianapolis sights as the streetcars for the old Interurban system–which is where the restaurant gets its new name.

New to the Mass Ave corridor is a vodka-meets-video concept that fills a gap in the city’s bar scene. Tini (717 N. Massachusetts Ave., 317-384-1313) opened on Dec. 13 to much buzz from those who can’t get over the idea that “Video Killed the Radio Star,” which is, not coincidentally, the first music video that owner Brad Kime played. The visuals are colorful and lively, of course, and the rest of the room complements those video clips, which skew evenly across classic and current. You’ll get both your Bruce Springsteen and your Beyonce here.

When Garuda, the short-lived Indonesian restaurant around the corner from Taste Café and Marketplace closed last summer, we weren’t planning on the owners reopening its doors just a few months later. We were surprised to hear that original owner Peter Oomkes’ son, Helger Oomkes, recently reopened the spot as SoBro Cafe (653 E 52nd St., 317-920-8121).

The corn “creme brulee” at Divvy (71 W. City Center Dr., Carmel, 317-706-0000), sweet but not overpowering, with firm kernels, a great creamy sauce, and the signature burnt topping. The artfully plated gorgonzola-stuffed chicken with scalloped potatoes and asparagus at

Got food lovers on your Christmas list? Fill their stocking with the season’s most tasteful treats.

We love the holidays, but let’s face it—those annoying, meddling mamas (honey, where are your cheekbones?) and out-of-control little ones hopped up on sugar (vroom) make them a challenge. A few tips on how to cope:

The Hyatt’s rooftop revolving restaurant, The Eagle’s Nest (1 S. Capitol Ave., 317-616-6170), quietly unveiled a tasteful facelift last week. In sedate champagne hues, with crisp white-leather seating and metallic wallpaper—it’s a P. Diddy video up there—the updated space does not compete with its own 360-degree view of a downtown Indy after dark, lit up like a Lite-Brite board. Diners sink into booths so deep (some equipped with throw pillows) that they can barely reach their Flirtinis and Lemon Drops, while Sade provides the obvious background track.

The make-your-own sundae bar at Dave’s All-American Pizza and Eatery (1247 W. Main St., Danville, 317-745-6942), with hand-dipped vanilla ice cream and a spread of toppings that includes marshmallow fluff, butterscotch, strawberries, whipped cream, sprinkles, and, of course, thick, hot fudge. The decadently rich Artichoke Cream Cheese Spread from the deli at Pogue’s Run Grocer (2828 E. 10th St., 317-426-496

Last week, Kevin “Woody” Rider opened Divvy (71 W. City Center Dr., Carmel, 317-706-0000), a sleek, small-plate restaurant in Carmel’s Arts & Design District. This isn’t Rider’s first rodeo, though. In 1998, he transformed a historic 1913 Andrew Carnegie library into Woody’s Library Restaurant (40 E. Main St., Carmel, 317-573-4444), an haute Hoosier eatery that is still going strong. Before that, he owned Parcel Pizza, and he opened the rural-gourmet outpost Bonge’s Tavern (9830 W. 280 North, Perkinsville,765-734-1625), a spot famous for its pre-meal tailgating. Divvy—for which Rider has enlisted his wife Richelle (who was chef at Scholar’s Inn for 10 years) to helm the kitchen—lists Thai chili-frizzled frogs legs with creme fraiche, pheasant sausage, and petite buffalo burgers among its small-plates offerings.

‘Tis the season when Naptown’s jolly brewers release long-awaited winter seasonal beers. From ambers with real cranberry juice to spice-infused ales, these beers are just waiting to be savored. Get on your sleigh and go now, though. These brews won’t last!

Proving that he cannot forget where it is that he comes from, Bloomington rocker John Mellencamp treated his girlfriend, actress Meg Ryan, to a 50th birthday party at Dunaway’s Palazzo Ossigeno (351 S. East St., 317-638-7663) on Saturday. In town for a performance at Clowes Memorial Hall, Mellencamp also flew in Ryan’s pal Kathy Najimy (of Sister Act fame), who ordered an undressed salad and vegetable plate. The party of 11 sat at a long table in the fireplace room, under the chandelier. Bottles of wine were ordered for the guests, “but he had Sierra Mist, and she had water,” says the restaurant’s office and events manager, Connie McDonald.

Sun King Wee Mac dark chocolate truffles at The Best Chocolate in Town (880 Massachusetts Ave., 317-294-2378). Those cute chocolate-covered almonds that look exactly like olives. Available at Simply Sweet Shoppe (30 N. Rangeline Rd., Carmel, 317-818-9866). Cheesy Potato C

It’s difficult to imagine a better setting for omelets and bellinis than Bloomington’s Cafe Django (116 N. Grant St., 812-335-1297), a charming boho bungalow just off of Kirkwood Avenue. While the regular lunch and dinner menus showcase an eclectic fusion of Asian, Mediterranean, and even Peruvian influences (owner Linda Eversoll hails from there), the breakfast menu relies more heavily on the traditional American morning fare typically found at upscale urban diners—with an accent. Along with such standards as smoked salmon, pancakes (with blueberries, chocolate chips, strawberries, or bananas), French toast, and a “House Breakfast” of two eggs, toast, potatoes, and bacon or sausage, for example, is a curried tofu scramble served with momos (steamed dumplings indigenous to the Himalayan region) on the side. A suggestion: Given a choice between the crispy “spicy potato wedges” and the mushier “Django potatoes,” go with the former. In any event, the tart Citrus Cocktail, a blend of lime and lemon juices served with bubbly, is a superb Sunday-morning thirst-quencher.