Food & Drinks

At the Meridian-Kessler location, an intimate, dimly lit, dining room is built around an exposed hearth oven, and the pizza gods shine a heavenly spotlight on executive chef Tyler Herald as he puts on a master class in pizza perfection.

The bric-a-brac–heavy country French decor may want for a makeover, but this date-night and anniversary draw offers the consistent comfort of an old friend’s house.

Showstoppers among the ultra-fresh fish include Maine scallops, striped bass, and grouper. Fresh oysters are a must.

Executive chef Ricky Hatfield’s experimental concoctions—such as wild-boar Wellington, wrapped in mustard greens and a puff pastry—are catching on among a traditionally risk-averse crowd.

Bistro-style dishes like root-vegetable cassoulet baked in its own cast-iron pan, unapologetically heavy Croque Monsieur sandwiches dripping with bechamel, and crepes of both the sweet and savory variety all taste delicious.

The Neapolitan-style pizzas are straightforward, with only five red-sauce varieties, each one garnished with Smoking Goose proteins and hand-pulled mozzarella.

You can set your Day-Timer by the weekly rotation of her menus—so even her most popular dishes have an ephemeral quality.

At Room Four, customers may quibble over taco choices—carne asada or rockfish—or opt for a Fischer Farms cheeseburger, a backyard memory revised to succulence by a master who appreciates simple food as much as esoteric fare.

Carlos Salazar’s umami-rich mushroom dumplings, pork-belly steamed buns, and meat-on-meat pig-face hash have raised the culinary bar while channeling the true spirit of Asia’s great street-food snacks.

The repurposed decor jibes with the menu’s reinvention of tavern fare: comfortable yet civilized, with flashes of brilliance, as in crispy-fried Citrus Spiced Seitan; beer-battered walleye with housemade tartar sauce; and black bean–corn fritters with cilantro cream.

After work, folks head upstairs to the 1933 Lounge, where they tuck into plates of mini bone-in filet chops, like caveman finger food. Even that famous cocktail sauce is now available by the bottle.

The servers here know they have the local lock on authentic Chinese dishes: twice-cooked pork belly shimmering in a tangy-sweet sauce; silky eggplant redolent of garlic or basil; perhaps the lightest seafood soup in the city.

The finger-friendly snacks offered at industrial-chic conversation nooks and in the cozier, fire-lit basement deliver the Taste flair familiar at brunch and dinner.

Including this almond croissant from Rene’s Bakery.

A counter with literature-themed offerings includes warming renditions of red-pepper curry; broccoli cheddar; Tuscan white bean with steamed kale and potatoes; and a thick, sweet tomato bisque.