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A Knockout Plate Of Portuguese Fries At Noblesville’s Bica Café

Get a close-up look at the signature brunch dish.

Bica Café in Noblesville’s Portuguese fries.Photo by Tony Valainis

This hearty, picante plate of carbs is among the elegant European-inspired brunch dishes at Maria and Mark Sciuchetti’s Bica Café in Noblesville. Russet brown and surprisingly earthy house fries hold up to all of the spicy sauces on top. Piri piri sauce lends them just the right zing and burn, while an unapologetic punch of garlic aioli gives the dish another layer of flavor. A sweet hint of roasted red peppers mirrors the heat in the piri piri sauce. Rich Portuguese brown sauce starts with wine, beef, and a host of aromatic seasonings, but the absence of flour means this is a silky, smooth gravy much lighter than you’d expect. Finally, just enough runny yolk remains in an over-easy egg to bathe the mix in its own creamy sauce.

Terry Kirts joined Indianapolis Monthly as a contributing editor in 2007. A senior lecturer in creative writing at IUPUI, Terry has published his poetry and creative nonfiction in journals and anthologies including Gastronomica, Alimentum, and Home Again: Essays and Memoirs from Indiana, and he’s the author of the 2011 collection To the Refrigerator Gods.
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