TASTE TEST: Little Devils

Oakleys Bistro
1464 W. 86th St., 824-1231, oakleysbistro.com
In this fragrant take, the spicy-pickled bite of wild-ramp kimchi pairs well with the smokiness of house-cured coppa.

The Libertine
38 E. Washington St., 631-3333, libertineindy.com
Among the lavish stuffed-egg offerings: caviar, horseradish, smoked fish, and whites pickled pink in beet juice (pictured).

Ocean Prime
8555 N. River Rd., 569-0975, oceanprimeindy.com
Ocean Prime adds the pungent essence of white truffle oil to its pretty, piped-in yolks.

Palomino
49 W. Maryland St., 974-0400, palomino.com
Dijon dominates this spicy, salty interpretation, which arrives with a sliver of jerky-like peppered bacon on top.

Shapiro’s Deli
808 S. Meridian St., 631-4041; 918 S. Range Line Rd., Carmel, 573-3354; shapiros.com
The classic mustard-mayo version gets a bit of paprika for tray appeal.

Photos by Tony Valainis

This article appeared in the November 2012 issue.