Swoon: Oyaki Cheesesteak Dumpling

Carlos Salazar has a reputation for creating dishes that are equal parts complex and kitschy. His menus at Rook (where he has been the chef and co-owner for six years) include highfalutin fare like foraged milkweed salad and fermented black-bean butter, but you are just as likely to see Spam on the list of choices. There’s no better example of Salazar’s high/low mix than the oyaki cheesesteak dumpling at Lil Dumplings, his new food stall at Fishers Test Kitchen. Bread-like dough is filled with thinly sliced flank steak, caramelized onions, and Cheez Whiz, then the little pillow gets steamed for softness before it’s seared for a crispy exterior. Finally, it’s topped with a mixture of cream, salt, pepper, and, drumroll please … more Cheez Whiz, which is aerated in a CO2 cartridge for an light, savory sauce.

Lil Dumplings

The Yard at District North, Fishers, fisherstestkitchen.com