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Swoon: Liter House

When you fuse the smoke of Texas barbecue with the rib-sticking classics of German cuisine, you get Liter House, the latest in Eddie Sahm’s Big Lug suds-and-grub concepts. In this colorfully attired “Bavariana” beer hall, pit master Blake Ellis, formerly of Repeal, and John Adams, long known for his imaginative fusion dishes, collaborate on skate wing schnitzel, smoked chicken with red cabbage, and wursts made with proprietary recipes by Smoking Goose. The dish that best brings the disparate traditions together is this Hungarian goulash, braised brisket ends in a stock spiked with Big Lug Kings Jive brown ale, caraway, ancho chili, and both sweet and smoked paprika, all nestled atop homemade spaetzle.

Liter House
5301 Winthrop Ave. 317-694-0580

Terry Kirts joined Indianapolis Monthly as a contributing editor in 2007. A senior lecturer in creative writing at IUPUI, Terry has published his poetry and creative nonfiction in journals and anthologies including Gastronomica, Alimentum, and Home Again: Essays and Memoirs from Indiana, and he’s the author of the 2011 collection To the Refrigerator Gods.
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